16:00 Suoritan nopean kiipeilykamojen pakkauksen: köys, jatkot ja vähän trädikamaa. Lopulta meillä on varmuuden vuoksi quatroräkki. Säkillinen vaatteita. Ei sadevarusteita, koska sadetta ei ole luvattu. Tohautan sumpit termariin ja noudan Katjan kätevästi naapuritalosta. Nyt aloitetaan Lahden seudun kiipeilykallioiden skouttaus. Päätämme suunnata ensin Reventeelle.
17:00 Lähetämme Laurille (pakun omistaja) kuvan kaksipaikkaisesta autolaturista, johon Katja iskee nelipaikkaisen autolaturin kiinni. Jos akku ei hyydy sunnuntaihin mennessä, niin ihme on.
17:45 Suunnittelemme matkalla ihanan illallisen kahdelle ja poikkeamme Tuuloksessa kaupassa. Kävelemme ees taas kauppakeskuksessa. Missä se S-marketti on? Ehdotan Katjalle, että pysähdytään Lammilla, koska se on matkan varrella Reventeelle ja siellä on siistiä kiipeilyä.
18:30 Lammilla. Katja on kiivennyt Lammilla vain kerran. Pakit tuli kuulemma ekan lämppärin aikana sateen takia. Kiipeämme Otepään ja sade alkaa. Paikalla on meidän lisäksi kaksi muutakin ohikulkijaa. He antavat meidän ystävällisesti yläköysitellä Käpylehmän. Kaatosataa. Jatkamme matkaa.
20:00 Lahdessa tuleekin nälkä, joten kurvaamme mäkkäriin. Onneksi tuli ostettua ihania tuoreita vihanneksia ja kevätsipuleita illallista varten. Nahistukoot autossa.
21.28: Laurilta tulee tekstiviesti: “Muista 60km/h!!!!!”
10:00 Reventeellä on satanut. Tarkistamme access asiat ja kierrämme kallion päästä päähän. Vasemmalta löytyy kuivaa kiivettävää: Urkupillit (trädi),Pilli ja Pulla. Jatkamme kallion perälle, mistä löytyvät todella hienot Siili ja Suloinen polku. Me ollaan liekeissä!
14:00 Nälkä ajaa meidät välipalalle autolle.
15:00 Oikean reunan reiteistä kiipeämme kivan näköiset reitit: Summerdays (trädi), ehkä Majurin Mantteli (hauska hyppylähtö) ja Kitkakoulu. Herkkää, herkkää!
20:00 Kokkaamme iltaruuan nahistuneusta kasviksista Lappalanjärven rannassa Karsitunniemessä ja vietämme loppuillan auringon paisteessa Jokelan Särkkien uimarannalla. Tänä iltana Suomen kesä on parhaimmillaan.
9:30 Olemme Louhoksen parkkiksella. Vettä ripsottelee, vaikka ei pitänyt sataa. Kuusaan Jussi kertoo meille reiteistä. On aina siistiä kuulla kiipeilykallion historiaa. Betasta me kieltäydymme kohteliaasti. Me itse. Naureskelemme, että mahtaa olla Jussin hankalaa pidättäytyä kertomasta eli beta spreijaamasta, kun hän osaa kaikki reitit muuvi muuvilta. Jussi on kohtelias ja antaa meidän pannuttaa ensin.
Louhos on erikoinen paikka. Räjäytetyn kallion sydämessä kasvaa vehreitä puita. On hiljaista. Ilma on pysähtynyt. Kallion pinta on sateen jäljiltä liukas, mutta kuivuu yllättävän nopeasti.
12:00 Katja kiipeä niin rohkeasti, että en voit kuin ihailla. Naisellahan on lähes kuuden kuukauden kiipeilytauko takana sormivamman takia. Go Katja!
Ajoittaisesta sateesta huolimatta saamme hyvän kiipeilysetin kasaan: Esifleikki, Port-To (liian jännä liidi mulle), Porari, Pöllövartio, Louhoksen Lordit, Peruskulma ja loppulämpäksi kaksi lyhyttä, mutta hauskaa kysymysmerkki (????) reittiä.
14:00 Nokka kohti kotia. Laulamme koko ajomatkan Kouvolasta Tampereelle. Tampereella sataa vettä… yllätys. Mieli on levännyt ja olo energinen. Eiks vaan Katja? 😉 Aika mennä töihin lepuuttamaan lihaksia. The end.
Here’s a recap of a five day trip Lauri and I did to the trad climbing mecca Bohuslän mid-March. We both have visited the most popular cliffs more than once; Hallinden, Häller, Galgeberget, Välseröd and Vettekullen to name a few. This time we decided to scout new crags and ended up visiting a dozen.
I was still not recovered fully from a stubborn cold so I spent most of my time hiking, belaying, and making opinions about cliffs. Here’s my notes:
First day we spent at Hallinds klack. After climbing the classics at Hallinds Klack Vänster we went to check out Lilla Väggen. The guide book has no photo of it so we did not know what to expect – a pleasant surprise! The both easy routes (4+/5) are really good and the delicate bolted arete (7) is better and longer (and harder) than it looks.
The next day we visited Högberget, Furuberget, and Skyggeberg.
Högberget and Furuberget looked inspiring to me with routes mostly in the 6- to 7+ range. Högberget was tall and looked super fun, but unfortunately wet at the time. Furuberget reminded me of Kustavi with shorter routes on splitter rock. Skyggeberg didn’t look as fun as I was expecting, though it has three classic 6-s. The approach was quite long in the Bohuslän standard and the cliff looked broken and adventurous.
What is a long approaches in Bohuslän? Lea, Katja and I spent two hours approaching to Tuntorp, couldn’t find it. And then an hour to Skälefjäll, which we found eventually. Both should be easy 10 to 15 minute walks.
Störreberg was described “broken” and I think it fit the description. Lauri climbed the recommended Vassa Armbågar which looked ok. I was too tired to climb (hung on tr a bunch) but didn’t feel like I was missing out. Belaying in a T-shirt was worth the hike to a sunny cliff.
And then we went to Broberget where I had a mental breakdown because the routes looked fun, the weather was great, and I was too tired to climb. There’s a lot to do here, I’m sure to return. Sigh.
Third day was colder and windier than the first two. We slept in and started driving towards Vinternberget. On our way we noticed that the cliff has a climbing closure. The guide book tells to check out a website for more info but it wasn’t up to date. The cliff right before the parking lot was told to be ok to climb at but we didn’t want to risk it since the cliffs are close to one another.
Änghagen was an interesting stop. This is the home of Presenten: maybe the most sandbagged route in the history of climbing. The climb was originally graded 6+ (/10d) but after a couple repeats it turned out to be harder and got the grade 8 (/12c). Bästa leden i Välseröd (6-) must be good.
Hällers Myr was beautifully located right next to a small lake. I will go here on a hot summer day when I want to swim and relax by the water after climbing. The cliff offers good looking hand and finger cracks in the 6-7 range.
Svaneberget has really good looking routes in the 6+-7 range right by the road. Navigating the turn to the parking area first try is harder though.
I wanted to climb long, easy routes and Brabbersberget was supposed to be the place for it. Once we got to the base of the climbs the winds suddenly grew stronger and temperature dropped. I climbed in a double puffy and was thankful for Lauri putting up the ropes on the easy routes I had planned to lead myself.
On our last day the weather got really bad so we started driving back early and visited Klättercentret Telefonplan in Stockholm. I visited both Telefonplan and Akalla this winter and recommend both. Especially Akalla is very family friendly with an awesome toddlers wall and huge cafe.
I can’t wait for my next Bohuslan trip, maybe in the fall. Now I’m off to Yosemite with Liisa, hurray!
Katja and I have been to Yosemite together once in 2012. Back then we didn’t understand what it means to climb long routes or big walls. Katja had just climbed for the first time in her life at the Red Rocks near Vegas. I had climbed at Smith Rock about four times.
After the first visit Yosemite became the goal for me. I was inspired by the beautiful surroundings which reminded me of home. Everything was just much bigger: the trees, the pine cones, the squirrels, and the rocks. Today other climbing venues have become just as inspiring to me but Yosemite is special because it was the first place that got me invested in trad climbing. After the trip I bought a set of nuts and biked to the Columns in Eugene to practice placing gear.
Back to 2016. The total cost for a two week Yosemite climbing trip for two ladies was about 2400 euros so 1200 euros each. We traveled from Tampere to Yosemite. We like living cheap but we also like good food.
Here is the break down in euros:
flights Finnair HKI-SFO 450 per person
ESTA 12 euros
car rental 1000 euros (including gas and insurance)
food 250 euros
the National park pass 50 euros
other travel expenses 200 euros (two nights in the Desmond hotel in San Francisco, taxi, Bart, train)
We both purchased the Gouda Super travel insurance for 160 euros. The insurance we have through the Vertikaali climbing club does not have enough coverage in the US.
Sleeping. We slept in a Lost Campers rental van. I highly recommend it. The only downside with sleeping in a van is you have to drive out from the park every night. Parking on pullouts in BLM land or Forest service land work unless there is a sign that prohibits camping.
Food. We planned dinners beforehand and bought groceries in the Bay area (mostly from Trader Joe’s). The grocery selection in the Valley is great but some items are expensive.
Milk. Have you found UHT milk or something that corresponds to it (and does not have high fructose corn syrup in it) in the US? If you have I would love to know. We used the powdered stuff.
Cooking. The equipment we needed was included in the van. We used my Jetboil for making breakfast. We ate out every day. 😉
Bears. Keep food and scented items (tootpaste, lotion) hidden during the day and in a bear box during the night. Save the bear.
Water and bathrooms. Are everywhere.
Gas. The closest gas is either in El Portal or right after the park entrace on 120. We spent almost two tanks in the Valley because we drove in and out every day. Fill up before entering the park if you are running low.
Red killer ants. Avoid trees and wear socks over your pants when rappelling. If you get attacked, strip all your clothing and ask your partner to help remove the ants.
Climbing topos. We had everything in our phones; the Yosemite Valley Free Climbs and the Mountain Project App. The Supertopo website has more up to date information.
Navigation and maps. For driving we used Google maps in offline mode and for the hiking we used the Gaia gps. Make sure you download the areas in a place that has good wifi. I put the tracking on if I was worried about hiking back in the dark.
Weather. The updated forecast is printed out in several places. There is a lot of options for wifi so it’s easy to check the weather on your phone too. The service is very spotty so you can’t count on your phone much.
Rope. The pitches are generally 40-60 meters long. We climbed with a single 60 meter which worked perfect. We had a 60 meter half rope as a back up for the routes which required two ropes to rappel. We could have had a 65 meter static pull cord too, but we ended up choosing the dynamic rope in case we needed a second lead line.
Rack. We usually had a double rack up to #3. We brought a #4 if the topo suggested to bring gear up to 3.5. Sometimes we brought triples in the sizes that the crux pitch asked for. The gear beta was from the Mountain Project and the Supertopo.
Alien cams. I understand now. The Totem ones.
Bailing and emergency. We brought bail biners and cord so we could back up wonky anchors. I backed up anchors with rusty bolts several times. Max took a 17 meter fall on Golden Gate (on the move pitch) because a bolt came out. Scary. I recommend visiting the National park service website about climbing in Yosemite. In case of an emergency call 911.
Rest days. We hung out and did absolutely nothing.
The climbing. Katja and I climbed mostly classics which in my opinion are all worth doing. My favorites were Super Slide and the East Buttress of Middle Cathedral rock. We did the climbs in this order. The sector is mentioned in the parenthesis. The routes are anywhere between 15 to 400 meters long.
Commitment 5.9 and Munginella 5.6 (Five Open Books)
After Seven 5.8 and Nutckracker 5.8 (Manure Pile Buttress).
Snake Dike Hike 5th class. We bailed at the base because of the potential storm. In the evening Katja climbed the first pitch of After Six 5.6 (Half Dome and Manure Pile Buttress)
Random 5.7 bolted slab. I bailed this one. We got eaten by mosquitoes and endured a lovely poison oak bushwhack. Great day. How about a rest day tomorrow? (at a random cliff next to the Cookie cliff)
Lemon 5.9-, Jamcrack 5.9, and Sunny Side Bench regular route 5.5 (Sunny Side Bench)
Super Slide 5.9 (KILLER ANTS!), bouldering at Camp 4, and top roping Generator crack (Royal Arches, Camp 4, the highway 140).
1/2 Reeds Leads 10b (KILLER ANTS, I BAIL. Really I bailed because I couldn’t find pro. Maybe I was not on Reads Leads?) Salathe 10c, and Sacherer Cracker 10a TR (El Capitan Base)
The East Buttress of the Middle Cathedral 5.9 A0. This was my favorite route. It had everything from a bolt ladder to chimneys. (The Middle Cathedral)